Ten tips on visiting Angkor’s temples

One of the things our guests really appreciate is Savuth’s skills in itinerary planning. We get so many comments about how Savuth knows the best times to see which temples and in which order to maximize one’s time and pleasure in avoiding the crowds to the extent possible. Unfortunately, not everyone uses Savuth as their tuk tuk driver. Here’s a great recent article with ten tips on how to get the most out of visiting the temples. An excerpt:

1  High season runs from November to March, when the weather is usually fair. Late October and November, the country is still lush after the rains and there are fewer tourists.

2  Wear comfortable shoes with good soles; the paving at the temples is uneven and slippery when wet. Take an umbrella against the rain/sun. A torch is useful for windowless rooms.

3  Have a basic understanding of Hinduism and Theravada Buddhism. Most guidebooks have a section on this subject. A good map is available at local bookshops in Siem Reap (they do not have one at the ticket office).

You can read the full article here at The Telegraph.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk.)

Cambodia: A good primer for first-time travelers

Credits: The Telegraph

I recently came across this good article in the UK’s Telegraph newspaper:

Cambodia: a country with its eye on the past: Clover Stroud revels in the colour, energy and optimism of modern Cambodia, but also discovers a country where few people remain unaffected by its recent history. 

“Children are playing basketball in the water. In a caged court on a lake, they dance with the ball, slamming it into the wire walls encasing them. A boat bobs alongside, its driver shouting to the children. They thrust hands out for cartons of mango juice which he exchanges for sweaty coins. I’ve never seen a basketball court on water, but this is Cambodia and it’s one of many things in the country that opens my eyes…”

You can read the full article here.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk.)

The Visual Genius of the Anjali Kids

One of the highlights of this year's Angkor Photo Festival will be the launch of Anjali House's "Cambodia, Our Vision" collection of stunning pictures from kids

One of the highlights of this year’s Angkor Photo Festival is the official launch of the beautifully executed photo book “Cambodia – Our Vision” from the kids at Anjali House. Anjali provides refuge, care and education for nearly 80 under-privileged children between the ages of 4 and 16 years old.

I have always been a strong believer in the curative and developmental power of art, creativity and imagination for anyone but especially for children. Seeing the world through children’s eyes is always a fascinating journey and these photographs from the Anjali kids will not disappoint. They are powerful and emotive images of their lives.

Check out Anjali’s website for more information or download Anjali House’s “Cambodia, Our Vision” – the brochure about the book. Anjali’s website has a great store section where you can order prints from the book, post card sets from the various young photographer’s and some other kit for yourself or vital stuff for the kids at the house.

I was lucky enough this morning to run into some of Anjali’s

This promises to be a fun event at next week's Angkor Photo Festival

youngsters this morning at the Blue Pumpkin Cafe here in Siem Reap. What a great bunch of kids who have come so far from such difficult circumstances. They deserve your support. If you are in town from November 20 – 27 check out all the great stuff, including the Anjali book, at this year’s Angkor Photo Festival. If you can’t be there, check out the Anjali stuff and maybe order something for yourself, for some lucky child in your life or help out the house itself in fulfilling its mission. You’ll be glad you did!

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk!)

Angkor Photo Festival About to Kick-Off

6th Annual Angkor Photo Festival kicks off this weekend!

The folks are busy with final preparations and everything is coming together beautifully

If you are in Siem Reap for the next few days, or about to come, don’t forget that this coming weekend is really a special time in town. There’s the boat festival (more on that on a second post a bit later today) and the annual Angkor Photo Festival. The folks at the festival are putting the final touches on all the preparations and it really promises to be another exciting program.

The festival kicks of on Saturday, November 20 at continues with a very varied daily program until the event’s closing one week later on Saturday evening, November 27. You can see the program on the organization’s website.

While talking to some of the organizers this morning at Angkor Gallery, I noticed this flyer about a cool event on November 23 which I wanted to draw some extra attention to. It’s a preview night slideshow highlighting the amazing photographs of some of the kids from Anjali House. It’s being held, as you can see, at the Siem Reap Hostel where a lot of the tutors for the Anjali photo workshops and other students participating in the festival’s workshops will be staying. They wanted to put together a preview event for the following day’s children’s program at the nearby Wat Damnak. Something tells me that the energy of these folks along with the subject matter will make this evening a really rocking affair.

You gotta check out the work of these kids! It is really stunning and moving!

Sadly after extending my stay here once already for six days I really have to head off tomorrow so I will miss the festival. I stopped by one of the main venues this morning – Angkor Gallery along the river road – and got to see some of the stuff. Make sure you check it out if you are lucky enough to be here!

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk!)

Siem Reap Fun Fair

For 'smile-view' click to enlarge

Last night after hanging out a bit at Savuth’s house we decided to head out to the local Siem Reap fun fair. Seeing the pure joy of a kid during a rare visit to a fun fair has got to be one of life’s better and more simple pleasures.

Siem Reap fun fair

The picture doesn’t do it justice as it was a pretty major affair. Lots of rides, plenty of food stalls and dozens if not hundreds of stalls selling everything from shoes to handbags to household accessories and more.

Let's do it again!

The rides are  quite simple, unsophisticated and would never qualify for liability insurance in the west but that does not have any negative impact on the joy and fun-factor for the kids. In some ways, the simple nature of it all creates a powerful back to basics type of pure fun that we no longer experience or perhaps appreciate with our high-tech, high-polish, super-sized lifestyle.

It was also a bit funny watching them initially struggle to eat their first-ever pizza slices with a plastic fork and knife which I think they associate with western food as a matter of fact. After a few minutes of observing their most valiant efforts, I decided

Ponheary Ly Foundation and Koh Ker – Part 1

Whenever I come visit Cambodia, some of my friends back home collect a bit of money to support one of the projects here that is near and dear to my heart. This year I used the money to help a small, independent and fantastic charity I have known here since 2007 called the Ponheary Ly Foundation. For some more info about them you can check out the bit I wrote last year when visiting: “Education is the Sweetest Revenge.”

We earmarked the money to provide a hot lunch to the nearly 200 primary school students of the very rural and very poor Koh Ker community. This is a school that is pretty much run by the Ponheary Ly Foundation since 2006. Koh Ker is the site of the ruins of one of the capital cities of the ancient Angkor empire. Due to its 100 km distance from Siem Reap, the tourist town serving the main temples of Angkor Wat, it gets almost no tourists and enjoys no development.

Koh Ker village was established in 1979 after the Vietnamese drove the Khmer Rouge from power. This part of northern Cambodia was one of the Khmer Rouge’s last holdouts. When established, the village became home to transient war victims: returning refugees who had fled to the northern border with Thailand, those who had survived wandering in the area’s jungles for several years or people who were lucky enough to outlive their torturous Khmer Rouge servitude.

Here we go again!

Getting really psyched for my next trip to the places and people I love so much!

The initial itinerary looks like this:

Oct 24 fly to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; overnight at airport
Oct 26 fly to Vientiane, Laos; overnight there
Oct 27 fly to Luang Prabang, Laos
Nov 1 fly to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Nov 12 ten – twelve hours by road to Kep, Cambodia
Nov 17 fly to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Nov 21 fly to Amsterdam

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on our website Angkortuktuk).

Angkor Photo Festival – Schedule of events!

I woke up this morning to find I had received the press kit with the full schedule of events for this year’s Angkor Photo Festival. Thank you Camille Plante!

If you are going to be in Siem Reap between November 20 – 27 you have got to check out this fantastic photography festival. (At the end of the article you will find a link to directly download the press kit which contains a complete day by day schedule.) You will find 10 indoor and 4 outdoor exhibitions at some of Siem Reap’s marquee locations such as Hotel de la Paix’s Arts Lounge, the McDermott Gallery, Angkor Photo Gallery, Angkor Hospital for Children, Blue Pumpkin Cafe, Raffles’ Garden and FCC Angkor. There will also be evening slide shows, events for children and of course the annual tie-in with the fantastic Anjali House for at-risk children. You will have the opportunity to see works from 110 photographers, including 50 from Asia encompassing fascinating themes from across the broader Asian continent.

As I read through the program I am once again sad and disappointed that my annual visit to Siem Reap comes to an end just a few days before the festival takes place. It looks like it is going to be a fantastic event.

For those not familiar with this sixth edition of what has become an important annual event, let me bring you up to speed with an excerpt from the press kit’s introduction:

“Created in 2oo5, the Angkor Photo Festival is the first such event to be organized in Southeast Asia. Each year, and for a week, the festival showcases exhibitions and outdoor slideshows by celebrating international and emerging Asian photographers’ works in Siem Reap. The temples of Angkor become a hub that draws both famous and passionate photographers from around the world in creativity and sharing spirit. The strong educational goals of the Angkor Photo Festival set it apart from other photography events. During their stay, famous photographers tutor Angkor Photo Workshops for emerging Asian photographers and the festival also presents its outreach programs Anjali Children’s Photo Workshops.”

Click HERE to download the presskit with the full schedule of events.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on our website Angkortuktuk).

Angkor Photo Festival 2010

If you’re going to be in Siem Reap between November 20 – 27 you may want to make a note of the sixth annual Angkor Photo Festival that will be taking place in that week. From the organization’s website:

“Created in 2005, the Angkor Photo Festival is the first such event to be organized in South-east Asia.

The festival’s 2010 program will present works photographed around the world through exhibitions and outdoor slideshows in different locations in Siem Reap. This is consistent with the festival’s mission of highlighting emerging South-east Asian photographers.

The strong educational goals of the Angkor Photo Festival set it apart from other photography events. During their stay, international reknowed photographers tutored free workshops for emerging Asian photographers and young Asian photographers supervise photo workshops for Anjali children’s project.

All events from the festival are entirely FREE OF CHARGE!”

There will be exhibitions, evening outdoor slideshows, events for children and the launch of Anjali House’s photo book of pictures taken by Anjali House’s former street kids. I hope to have the full schedule of events posted on the weblog as soon as it is available from the organization.

UPDATE: The catalogue of some of the fantastic photos from the new Anjali House photo book is now available.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on our website Angkortuktuk).

Through Children’s Eyes

Last week there was an unusual event in London that featured the photography work of children from Anjali House in Siem Reap. From the Phnom Penh Post:

“Photographs taken by former street children from Anjali House formed part of the backdrop for a book launch in London last night. Projections of the children’s work accompanied author Sue Guiney’s reading of her newly published novel, A Clash of Innocents (Ward Wood Publishing), at the launch at Asia House in fashionable Fitzrovia near Regent’s Park.”

The book, set in Cambodia is, “the heart-warming story of the indomitable Deborah, who runs an orphanage and fights with her own demons as the country struggles to come to terms with its bloody history”. Photographs taken by the children formed the background for the book launch. The photography display was itself a pre-launch event for the upcoming photo book “Cambodia: Our Vision” which is made up of images taken by the children of Anjali House.

UPDATE: The catalogue of some of the fantastic photos from the new Anjali House photo book is now available.

I too have always been fascinated by the things children photograph when given a camera and let loose in their own world. Last year, I gave cameras the three older children in a family I am close to in Siem Reap who live in a village outside of the city. I was quite impressed by the results which you can see in this album.

The launch of the Anjali book will take place during this year’s annual Angkor Photo Festival. More on the festival will follow in a day or two so watch this space.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on our website Angkortuktuk).

Lori’s Guide to Good Eats in Siem Reap

Lori anad Ponheary talking with one of the 2400 students the foundation supports at the opening day of the 2009 school year

Siem Reap has an incredible selection of restaurants both in terms of variety, price class and of course quality. Here’s a list of favorites from Lori Carlson who is one of my favorite people in Siem Reap. Lori is the co-founder and President of the Ponheary Ly Foundation, one of Siem Reap’s finest small and innovative NGO’s. For more about the great work of the foundation you can check out my personal account of some time I spent with the incredible Ponheary Ly.

Lori’s picks span the price range from cheap to expensive. Some of her picks are in the Wat Bo area of town where Seven Candles Guesthouse is located. Seven Candles is the Ly family home annex wonderful guesthouse annex foundation headquarters.

At the bottom find a link to download the whole list in pdf format so you can easily take it with you!

Lori’s Guide to Good Eats

You can eat anything at these places without gastronomical consequences. They are tried and true. Eat the meat, eat the vegetables even if they are raw, try the frogs, have a shake, chomp the ice, it’s all good. Most of the food in Siem Reap is pretty safe these days; the days of amoebic dysentery for lunch are almost behind us. Your own dirty hands are probably your biggest threat.

Be patient with the staff, especially in the local places. They will bring the menu and then stand there, bored and impatient, until you’re ready to order. Just take your time. They will not bring the food all at once. They will bring it one dish at a time, so either eat Cambodian (family) style or don’t wait for your dining companions to get their food before digging into yours. In local places, once they bring your food, they will never come to your table again until you call them. If you need some- thing and can’t catch their eye, just raise your arm and sort of flap your hand around until they come. If you want your bill, you can make the universal gesture for “the check” or say “kut luey” and they will come collect.

Don’t be freaked out by lots of trash lying underfoot. Locals throw their napkins, chicken bones, empty beer bottles, etc under the table for clean up later. Big piles of trash = lots of people eat there = the food is probably good.

Everybody does “take away” and is happy to deliver for an extra buck or so.

Price per person without drinks:
$ less than $5
$$ $5-10
$$$ $10-15
$$$$ over $15
* signifies in the neighborhood of Seven Candles

Irrawaddi
*Perfect Burmese food. Really good, simple and very flavorful. This is my current favorite Hole-In-the-Wall. Whatever you have, make sure you also try the Tea Leaf Salad. Just about everything on the menu is less than $2 a plate, so try a few different things. The owner ChoCho, has been in Cambodia for 6 years and is a warm and engaging hostess. If you’re not sure what to order, just tell her to “bring you something good”. She’ll fix you right up. Take out also available.

Thinking of visiting Cambodia?

England’s The Independent newspaper has run an excellent travel article for those considering a trip to Cambodia. It provides a good introduction to the most major destinations and some of the places off the beaten track including a Robinson Crusoe type retreat on a small otherwise deserted pristine island. If you’re thinking of visiting Cambodia then this article is a fine place to start:

“Traveller’s Guide: Cambodia

You can still feel like an explorer in a country where the wonders of Angkor Wat stand in contrast to the horrors of the Killing Fields, says Richard Waters”

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on our website Angkortuktuk).

Gods of Angkor: Bronzes From the National Museum of Cambodia

"Gods of Angkor" is on exhibit at the Freer + Sackler Galleries until Jan 23, 2011

Staying in yesterday’s theme about sculptures, I wanted to bring another exhibit to your attention, especially our American readers or those traveling to Washington, DC in the coming time. “The Gods of Angkor: Bronzes from the National Museum of Cambodia” is a compact exhibit of 38 bronze sculptures from the ancient Angkor empire. These statues reflect the Hindu origins and evolution towards Buddhism of the religion celebrated by the ancient Angkorians. They are also wonderful examples of the rich imagery that they were so fond of and which so generously adorn the Angkor temples in Cambodia.

The New York Times arts section ran a wonderful 2-page article about the exhibit with a lot of great background about the evolution of the religious beliefs of the intriguing empire that was the ancient precursor of today’s Cambodia.

The exhibit is at the Smithsonian’s Freer + Sackler Galleries in Washington DC. It opened in May and runs until January 23, 2011.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk !).

Fragments by Blake

Picture is from the 'Fragments' by Blake website. Click the picture to visit their website. The exhibition will be premiering Sept 23 at Hotel de la Paix in Siem Reap.

If you are going to be in Siem Reap somewhere between September 23 – November 3 you may want to catch this great sculpture exhibit – Fragments by Blake – at Hotel de la Paix. About the exhibit:

“The pioneering Arts Lounge at the Hôtel de la Paix in Siem Riep, Cambodia will play host to an exhibition by renowned sculptor Blake this month, inspired by landmine survivors.

From 23 September until 3 November, ‘Fragments’ by Blake reveals his latest pieces – with 30 per cent of all sales going towards the NGO Cambodian Self Help Demining. Set up by former child soldier Aki Ra, CSHD provides support for surviving victims and helps clear Cambodia of the many landmines that still lie undetected.

Working in his characteristic sculptural style, Blake has created a series of 15 bronze figures, each providing a sharp reminder of a devastating war that continues to claim victims. Last year, more than 200 people were either killed or injured in Cambodia after stumbling across an unexploded mine.“

You can read more about Blake here and see a couple of great videos about the inspiration for and importance of the sculptures here.

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk!)

“The Next Cambodia”

All photos copyright Jika González: "I saw this boy walking barefoot and alone on a long dirt road in the outskirts of Siem Reap. According to the Cambodia Center for the Protection of Children’s Rights, 35% of Cambodian’s live under the poverty line, and 90% of them live in rural areas."

Here’s a really nice photo essay with a short introduction from a young Mexican born photographer, Jika González, looking at tomorrow’s Cambodia by focusing her eyes and lens on today’s Cambodian youth:

“The youth of a nation is that country’s future. While this is true for all countries, the weight of carrying this heavy responsibility rests especially heavy on the shoulders of the Cambodian youth. According to the C.I.A. World Fact Book, an amazing 50% of Cambodia’s population is under the age of 22…”

The short text from Jika and her pictures will give you some great insight into what to expect if you are planning a trip to Cambodia and will bring back lots of memories if you have been. And if you fall into neither categories, then the essay may change that …..

(Thinking of visiting the temples of Angkor Wat? Don’t forget to check out my friend Savuth’s tuk tuk services and all the handy information available on Angkortuktuk!)